Ceramides and their role in skincare

The critical characteristic of an impaired skin barrier in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD) is well-evidenced and seems to be genetically driven. As ceramides play a key role in skin barrier function, dermatologists should recommend the use of ceramides in skincare to moisturise and repair skin. 

Skin barrier dysfunctions play a primary role in AD pathogenesis. There are several common barrier defects of which many have a genetic origin. In general, genetics and environmental factors contribute most to stratum corneum defects. Prof. John Su and Dr Katherine Armour (Monash University; Dermatology Institute of Victoria, Australia) shared their vision on ceramides in skin barrier improvement [1].

Ceramides are the main component of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Along with cholesterol and saturated fatty acids, they create a water-impermeable layer that prevents the entry of microorganisms. Thus, ceramides are a natural moisturising factor that helps in barrier formation, function, and repair. Natural ceramides in the skin fluctuate with seasonal changes and reduce with ageing, AD, and psoriasis. For example, dry skin has fewer and shorter chain ceramides, specifically lacking the ceramide EOP. Eczema-prone skin is also associated with a deficient level of ceramides.

Research has shown that daily moisturising increases the time until the next AD flare-up. Dermatologists generally recommend cleaning the skin thoroughly but gently and carefully. There is no standard frequency or duration for bathing, but low pH, hypoallergenic, fragrance-free cleansers should be recommended. After bathing, it is important to pat the skin gently and to apply a moisturiser immediately to increase hydration. Ceramides EOP, NP, and AP are the most worthwhile ingredients to look for in skincare products.

Other additives that can be added to skincare to improve barrier function include zinc sulphate and copper sulphate (antibacterial action), niacinamide (barrier support, anti-inflammatory), and colloidal oatmeal (anti-pruritic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant).

In conclusion, ceramides are lipids that are found naturally in high concentrations in the stratum corneum. They can be naturally reduced due to several factors, but adding them through ceramide-rich skincare supports skin barrier repair and function.

1. 
   
   1. Su J, et al. Atopic skin: A close-up upon skin barrier dysfunction. BIODERMA (NAOS) Symposium, ICD 2021, 10–13 November.

 

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Posted on 2 December 20217 September 2023